Hubert Burda Media

Couture Chronicles, Spring 2016: Schiaparelli

We report from the Spring 2016 couture shows in Paris.

For his second collection at Schiaparelli, Bertrand Guyon served a feast for the eyes. The food-themed show featured a wall installation of white porcelain tableware while pasta, potato, eggplant and garlic motifs appeared throughout the collection, from prints and embroideries to appliqués and pins and necklaces. It felt a bit gimmicky at times – the patterns were better when toned down, such as in a blue dress with silver embroidered forks, knives and spoons. Homages to Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist heritage came in a dress featuring a lobster dish on its bodice and a pleated chiffon gown in shocking pink, the maison’s signature hue. It hasn’t been a smooth ride since Diego Della Valle acquired the house in 2006, but the brand is slowly becoming an active player on the red-carpet circuit – Kate Bosworth and Michelle Yeoh sat front row and looked stunning in golden looks by Guyon.