Hubert Burda Media


A sneak peek at the novelties at this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (January 21–25, 2013) in Geneva.

 Duomètre Unique Travel Time
Jaeger-LeCoultre debuts a world-time watch in the Duomètre collection that allows the user to adjust the time in the travel time zone to the nearest minute. The home time is displayed on the right sub dial, and the travel time is read from the left sub dial. This travel time is completely independent and can be set to the minute, with the hours displayed in a jump-hour, digital format. The globe at six o’clock is a day-night indicator that gives a rough indication of the global time. As the ‘duo’ prefix suggests, the Duomètre operates on a Dual-Wing system that separates the energy channelled into the two mechanisms.
The launch of the new Clifton collection, a newly evolved line for the brand’s older Classima series, signals the birth of a new classic for Baume & Mercier. Three models have been revealed so far, all bearing round cases and a distinctive double-bevelled design. The steel models are available in either a black or white dial, and are powered by an automatic Sellita SW 260-1 movement; the red gold version is powered by a manual-winding La Joux-Perret 7381 movement. All three come with small seconds at six o’clock but the date function is only available in the steel models.
Grande Complication Royal Oak Offshore Titane
The beefier and sportier younger brother to the classic Royal Oak is offered in a Grande Complication model for the first time, and comes endowed with some of haute horology’s favourite complications. Powering this 44mm watch is the self-winding Calibre 2885 that houses classic complications like a minute repeater, split-second chronograph and perpetual calendar complications. An exhibition case back reveals the intricate and elaborate mechanism as well as the solid gold oscillating weight that has been given a black surface treatment for a touch of contemporary ruggedness.
Limelight Gala
The 1960s was a particularly fruitful decade for Piaget. This was a time when some of their most creative bejewelled watches were produced and is also what its designers have turned to for inspiration this year. The Limelight Gala is an elegant novelty featuring a round case rimmed by a row of progressively sized brilliant-cut diamonds, sublimated by two elegantly extended lugs. This watch is powered by the Piaget 690P quartz movement.
Excalibur 36
Roger Dubuis has dedicated this year to their most emblematic collection, the Excalibur. Gracing this collection is a new ladies timepiece in pink gold that is set with a halo of 672 diamonds. In this feminine version, the same aesthetic codes that define the Excalibur collection have been retained, albeit softened by the sparkle of diamonds and the romantic hue of pink gold.
Nicolas Rieussec
 Rising Hours
There is no need for day and night indicators with Montblanc’s new interpretation of their iconic Nicolas Rieussec chronograph. Two discs sit one atop the other to show not only the 12 hours, but also to indicate whether they fall in the day or at night (numerals are pale blue at night and black during the day). This unusual time display is made possible thanks to the new manufacture calibre MB R220, which boasts a patented mechanism consisting of two rotating discs that move in tandem, but at different speeds, to produce the desired colour change.
Luminor 1950 Rattrapante
 8 Days Titanio PAM00530
Panerai presents a rattrapante (split seconds) function in its latest model, a chronograph in a vertical clutch design with twin column wheels. The rattrapante operates two hands: The first is entirely controlled by the button at eight o’clock, while the second hand that is activated to measure partial times and a second simultaneous event, is controlled by the button at 10 o’clock. Powering this watch is the in-house P.2006, a hand-wound movement with a long power reserve of eight days, achieved by means of a special patented system involving three spring barrels.
Grand Lange 1 Lumen
One of the signature trademarks that distinguishes this German brand is the outsize-date feature. Couple that with an off-centre dial display and you have the
Lange 1, a watch that has earned the title of a classic since it appeared in the market in 1994. An enlarged version known as the Grand Lange 1 was introduced in 2012 and this year, A. Lange & Söhne reveals the mechanism behind the famous date display format in the Grand Lange 1 Lumen. As the name suggests, parts of the dial, such as the outsize date, indications for hours and power-reserve have been coated with a luminescent material to ensure legibility even in the dark. The most challenging feat was finding a solution that made it possible for the outsize date to maintain maximum luminosity even after the daily switching operation. The solution? A sapphire-crystal dial that allows the ultra-violet rays to reach the luminous surfaces unhindered. Presented in platinum cases, only 200 pieces are available.
Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain in 5N red gold
The master of multiple tourbillons has tweaked the design of its third invention and presented it in a red gold case, complete with an improved titanium movement that now takes on a more 3D structure. This depth of field is additionally enhanced by a royal blue treatment on the mainplate and bridges, achieved via a special oxidisation process. The facelift provides a more stunning setting for the key feature: The efficient and fast-rotating tourbillon that makes a complete revolution every 24 seconds. Inclined at 25 degrees, it minimises the effects of gravity on the oscillator.