In celebration of its bicentenary, Louis Moinet has presented a new limited edition of its iconic Memoris chronograph. Named the Memoris 200th Anniversary, the brand’s latest chronograph pays tribute to the original compteur de tierces pocket watch. Equipped with the LM 54 calibre, the Memoris’ 147 chronograph components are placed on top of the movement’s main plate, while its timekeeping elements are shifted to the bottom — a configuration that makes the watch a chronograph that tells the time instead of merely a timepiece with a chronograph function. It is the only watch in the market to do so. Located at the two o’clock position, the monopusher, decorated with a Clous de Paris pattern, sets the chronograph in motion.
With a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the watch comes with the brand’s high performance Energie Plus system, which improves winding efficiency by an estimated 30 percent. Encapsulating a pawl system that features a “crab claw” design and a ceramic ball bearing mounted on the rotor, the highly revered craftsmanship reflects the movement of the oscillating mass in opposite directions, minimising excess travel and therefore passing more energy to the barrel spring, compared to a conventional self-winding system.
The main difference between the previous Memoris and the Memoris 200th Anniversary lies in its finishing. The anniversary piece showcases an hour dial crafted from blue enamel and a main plate coated in translucent blue, recalling the beauty of the night sky. Star constellations are then engraved on the main plate through a fixed graver process, which requires the attachment of a specially made lathe to a traditional rose engine. By combining the power of the rose engine with the precision of a handheld graver, each star is formed in varying angles and depths, capturing as much light to give the impression of the stars actually shining.
To further immortalise the splendour of nightfall, a revolutionary translucent material in dark blue, made of composite materials and high-temperature vacuum moulding, is used on the flange and counter bridge of the new Memoris. Crystal-like yet durable, the translucency and the colour add a certain depth of entrapment to the entire timepiece, allowing its wearer to gaze upon the blue night sky when checking the time. The timepiece is available in white and rose gold, each limited to 20 pieces only.