It’s a New York institution with a firm fan base stateside, and now Wolfgang Zwiener’s eponymous restaurant has set up shop on Central’s Duddell Street.
A typically American set-up – think dark wood paneling, marble steps and smooth white linen tablecloths – gives a handsome appeal to the open-plan space, while the menu remains consistent with other Wolfgang outposts across the US, Japan and the South Korean capital, Seoul.
It’s no surprise that seafood and steak are the frontrunners here. For the money, portions are generous (a fresh seafood platter for one comes in at under $300; a 1,000-gram porterhouse costs a heartily reasonable $1,050) and we were particularly impressed with the perfectly pink, butter-soft tenderloin that came delivered in its own spitting juices. Sides aren’t to be sneered at either: we tried potatoes prepared two ways and a strong variation on traditional creamed spinach (no watery greens here) that we’d happily order again.
The young waiters were desperate to please – they’d do well to relax a little into their roles, but it’s a good problem to have in a city where service can often come up wanting. Sommelier Alex Wong was a strong presence in the busy dining room, attentive but never intrusive, his wine choices perfectly matched to our table groaning under the weight of dishes.
On this evidence, Wolfgang’s appears to have everything it needs to succeed in Hong Kong; let’s see how it fares against the established names.