They call themselves the choreographers of the passing hours; and their pieces, the sculptures of time. This year, Stephen Forsey and Richard Greubel introduced the Signature 1, the first in a new series of watches that will be made in collaboration with a different watchmaker each time. Having the honour of collaborating on the first in the series is Didier Cretin, a watchmaker that has worked for Greubel Forsey for 10 years. This is the first "simple" timepiece under the brand that reveals only a three-hand movement without complication. The exclusive Greubel Forsey balance wheel system, with the balance wheel and mainspring manufactured within its in-house workshop, reveals the single balance wheel positioned in a flat position (unlike the other inclined ones). Premiering new finishing techniques, the watch is presented in gold, platinum and for the first time, stainless steel.
The master of ultra-thin movements has launched its first complicated movement that is entirely dedicated to ladies. The Limelight Stella features an astronomical moonphases display decorated by stars and two moons driven by a 135-tooth wheel. The display is so accurate that it needs to be corrected only once after 122 years — that means you’ll never need to adjust it in your lifetime. The new self-winding 584P calibre also drives the hours, minutes, seconds. Available in pink or white gold with or without diamonds, there are also two high jewellery iterations that are powered by the 580P movement without the central seconds hand. The fully set one, with baguette diamonds channel set on the bezel, is set with a generous 42ct of diamonds.
Old is Gold
The Florentine watchmaker debuted the PAM662 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio, a direct reinterpration of the coveted vintage Ref 6154 "Egiziano Piccolo" created for the Egyptian frogmen in the 1950s. Back then, only 40 pieces were ever produced, which explains why the watch is so sought after by collectors today. True to its roots, this homage piece is offered in a 47-mm stainless steel case and a brown dial with matching strap. The hands and dial are filled with ecru-coloured SuperLuminova material to obtain that vintage semblance; while Plexiglass is used over the dial and case back instead of the usual sapphire crystal. Powering this piece is the manual winding P.3000 movement with three days of power reserve.
Van Cleef & Arpels
The poet of time has outdone itself this year. Among the many breathtakingly beautiful timepieces is the Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons, a tribute to nature that also shows off the jeweller’s mastery over various watchmaking métiers d'art. The animated dial depicts a swallow and three butterflies flitting around the dial to indicate the hours and minutes respectively, thanks to a specially developed mechanism that features a retrograde hour hand, variable-speed minutes and on-demand animation. Offered in a 38mm diameter white gold case with a diamond-encrusted bezel and crown, the mother-of-pearl dial also features engraving and intricate miniature painting.
Click to read our report from Day 1 of the 26th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie
Click to read our report from Day 2 of the 26th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie
Click to read our report from Day 4 of the 26th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie