Hubert Burda Media

Versace autumn/winter 2016 couture review

Our couture correspondent reports from the front row at Versace.

The finale of the Atelier Versace autumn/winter 2016 show

Going into a Versace show, you usually know what to expect: a heady dose of high-octane glamour and a top-notch casting of supermodels dressed to impress. The red carpet has always been a mainstay for the label, whose couture shows often feature a significant number of Oscar-worthy goddess gowns.

Coats are definitely not the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Versace but for the brand's autumn/winter 2016 show, which kicked off the couture season in Paris on Sunday night, Donatella Versace offered some of the most women-friendly and beautifully-cut coats we've seen in  a long time. British top model Karen Elson opened the show clad in a powder pink robe coat cinched high at the waist and worn nonchalantly over an exposed shoulder. She looked like a boudoir queen out of a '50s noir and so did a handful of girls wearing voluminous coats worn over slip dresses and column gowns.

These unexpectedly covered-up looks from a house known for its sexy attitude gave the show a more demure vibe than we've become accustomed to, but ultimately what will get traction on social media and among celebrity stylists are those fabulous gowns that followed the true-and-tested formula of all-out glamour synonymous with Versace.

House signatures such as thigh-high slits and strategically placed cut-outs came back in full force, but this season the dresses featured swirls of draped and twisted fabric, and a structured yet sinuous silhouette that truly flattered the models' bodies.

Donatella Versace and her atelier are masters at delivering flawlessly and intricately constructed showstoppers that worship the female body, which is why, great coats or not, Versace will always be the go-to house for glamazons looking for a sexy armour to take them from one sensational soirée to the next.