Hubert Burda Media

Dior autumn/winter 2016 couture review

The Parisian house hits all the right notes with an elegant, understated collection.

Amid rumors that the house of Dior has finally found its new creative director in Maria Grazia Chiuri of Valentino, the design team, led by Lucie Meyer and Serge Ruffieux, decided to stick to its strategy of playing it safe, delivering a monochrome and elegant collection that was hands down the duo’s best effort since they took over the studio after the departure of Raf Simons last year.

The house codes of Dior were all there, from the iconic Bar jacket, embroidered with golden sheaths of wheat, to flouncy A-line skirts and the predominance of black and white. The collection, which was presented to media and clients in the Dior headquarters of 30 Avenue Montaigne to pay homage to the couture ateliers of the maison, had an ethereal quality to it and was a striking departure from Simons’ modernity or his predecessor’s John Galliano’s grandeur.

With the exception of a few embroidered fur separates and dresses covered in gold speckles inspired by the work of Cesar and Claude Lalanne, it was a very sober and light show, which is perhaps what Dior needs before it unveils its much-awaited “new look” with a new designer at its helm come October.