Hubert Burda Media

The Eyes Have It

The newest additions to Bulgari’s famed Serpenti collection are as captivating as they are extraordinary

Often called the windows of the soul, the eyes reveal much about the person – or the creature – they belong to. But they may also hide something: an intent, a desire, an emotion. Perhaps encapsulating this quality more than any other animal is the snake, for thousands of years seen as the very essence of hypnotic seduction. This quality, has of course, also been attributed to some of history’s greatest femmes fatales; Cleopatra chief among them, but also the likes of Sophia Loren.

Bulgari, the Italian master jeweller, has since the ’60s placed the snake at the heart of its creations in its Serpenti collections. This year, the range has been updated by focusing on the creature’s eyes. The Serpenti “Eyes On Me”  collection places the orbs centre stage, an initiative that not only speaks to the astonishing creativity of the maison, but that also heralds new life in the form of exciting designs and expressions. All pieces have in common a hexagonal pattern that mimics the scales of a serpent, giving the collection a new-found freedom of expression.

The new range features gems that are in every way as unique as the iris of an eye.  Whether the piece be worn as a ring, a bracelet or – for the first time – a pendant, they can take a sharp, minimalist, round or distinctly 3D form, coiling around the wearer much in the way of the animal that inspired it.

Take, for instance, the Serpenti pink-gold band ring with rubellite eyes and a pavé-set head. Its red orbs offer the promise of seduction, or perhaps the ability to hypnotise the onlooker. But perhaps the star of the show is the Serpenti white-gold bracelet. Set with a full diamond pavé of 6.15 carats, its emerald eyes (just over 1 carat) might equally speak to jealously – surely something felt by those not lucky enough to own it.