Hubert Burda Media

Valentino's spring/summer 2017 collection

Pierpaolo Picciolo envisions a bright future – literally – with a vibrant colour palette, plus an imminent make-up launch

A look from Valentino spring/summer 2017

After Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri took the helm of Valentino, graceful elegance and punk undercurrents became the core of the label's aesthetic. Piccioli is now the sole creative director of the Roman maison, after Chiuri left to join Dior in July, and his first collection debuted in Paris on Sunday afternoon (see our review of Dior's collection here.)

Piccioli didn't rock the boat, offering a series of beautiful looks ranging from the diaphanous chiffon long-sleeved gowns that have become signatures of the brand to pajama outfits in rich brocade and intricate dresses in skins such as python. A spaghetti-strap red peasant dress in pleated leather was a standout as were a wave of outfits in colors such as fuchsia, a welcome departure from the dark and pastel hues of previous seasons. Piccioli also collaborated with Zandra Rhodes, the doyenne of London fashion, for a set of prints inspired by Hieronymus Bosch (if the maison's previous collaboration with Celia Birtwell is any indication, this one will also be a hit at retail).

The tiny studded lipstick bags paired with those lavish gowns, a preview of the brand's upcoming foray into make-up, made for a cool styling statement and, practicality be damned, they will likely be everywhere next spring along those dainty velvet sandals that put a spring into the models' steps.