Hubert Burda Media

Dior's spring/summer 2017 collection

Was Maria Grazia Chiuri's Dior debut a little too reminiscent of her Valentino days?

Backstage at Dior spring/summer 2017

One of the most awaited debuts of the season was Maria Grazia Chiuri's first collection for Dior, the brand she joined in July after leaving Valentino. Held in a temporary structure in the garden of the Musée Rodin, the show featured a bare set made of a wooden runway and wooden benches, all the better to focus the attention on the clothes.

The opening outfits, all in white and recalling fencing uniforms, were greeted with puzzling looks by the audience, who didn't know what to make of this sporty vibe, something relatively new to Dior. The pleated gowns, embroidered sweaters paired with maxi skirts and T-shirt/skirt combos that followed were definitely crowd pleasers, although they reminded many of her previous work at Valentino. Those T-shirts featured slogans such as "We Should All be Feminists" and "Dio(r)evolution", making a statement about Chiuri's role as the first female designer at the house, and providing Instagram bait that will certainly delight the fashion set.

It was a new direction for the house of Dior – much younger and more street-friendly, which will hopefully translate well when the clothes hit the retail floor.