Hubert Burda Media

SIHH 2017 Highlights: IWC

A decade since it was last revamped, IWC’s Da Vinci collection is given a new lease of life this year. 

IWC shines the spotlight on its Da Vinci collection with new watches that take inspiration from a specific era in its past: The 1980s. Instead of sticking to the tonneau case that has, in the last decade, grown to be a defining trademark of the collection, the watchmaker has adopted the classic round case of the 1980s — a period particularly meaningful to the brand because of its bestselling Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 3750), a watch that combines a mechanical chronograph with a perpetual calendar, moon phase display and four-digit year display. The 80s was also when it presented the world’s first watch case made of yttrium-stabilized zirconium oxide ceramic (in 1986).

Some of the design features that both the old and new collections have in common are the rounded cases and crowns, well-designed dials and twin-frame bezels with peripheral grooves. What’s new are the movable horns with curved lugs, lancet-shaped hands, Santoni leather straps, as well as applied Arabic numerals.

Offering a range of watches from three-hand self-winding models to high complication pieces, the top-of-the-line watches are the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and the Da Vinci Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph. The former debuts a new movement, the calibre 89360, which combines the chronograph from the 89000 calibre family with the perpetual calendar’s moon phase display. The result is a single subdial that shows the dual counters of the chronograph, along with the moon phase mechanism.

The other high complication offered, the Da Vinci Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph, shows off the new in-house 89900 calibre that features the unusual combination of a stop seconds flying tourbillon, a chronograph and a retrograde date. An improved geometry in the diamond-coated silicon pallet lever and escape wheel led to a reduction in friction, thus resulting in a fairly generous 68-hour power reserve.

In addition to the 40mm self-winding Da Vinci Automatic in stainless steel that comes with the option of a bracelet or leather strap, IWC has also launched two models in 36mm specifically for ladies. The Da Vinci Automatic 36 and Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 watches are a continuation of the brand’s recent foray back into the ladies’ segment, a move that began with the Portofino collection in 2015.

Da Vinci Automatic 36

Offered in stainless steel or red gold variants, with or without diamond-set bezels, both models are powered by a self-winding movement offering 42 hours of power reserve. Each watch is protected by a solid caseback engraved with the “Flower of Life” (a geometric floral figure composed of overlapping circles revered by many different cultures) and features an inner circle on the dial to further accentuate its feminine physique. The Da Vinci 36mm includes a date function while the Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 charts the lunar cycle and is perfect for the lady who appreciates complications.

Lastly, rounding out the collection is the limited-edition Da Vinci Chronograph Edition “Laureus Sport for Good Foundation”, complete with its unmistakable dark blue dial and red accents. The watch is equipped with the 89361 chronograph calibre that has a flyback function and a 68-hour power reserve. This is the 11th year that IWC has supported this organisation, which aims to empower the lives of young and mentally handicapped people through sports and sporting competitions. Like previous editions, the caseback for this year’s special edition features the winning picture from a drawing competition for children.

Click to read our report of A. Lange & Söhne at the 27th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

Click to read our report of Audemars Piguet at the 27th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

Click to read our report of Cartier at the 27th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

Click to read our report of Girard-Perregaux at the 27th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

Click to read our report of Greubel Forsey at the 27th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

Click to read our report of Jaeger-LeCoultre at the 27th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie